‘‘Yea man, it’s true''

‘‘Yea man, it’s true; he has been stealing money and taking land. All the News, he tells them what to say. None of it…It’s not true. The people don’t like him man’’

My heart sank when a friend said these words to me yesterday while sitting around a table over a bottle of rum in Ebakika (the next village north from St. Luce). We stopped in Ebakika because we needed to make arrangements with the village regarding tree planting next month (we are planting 24,000 trees, many native). The rum…an inviting cultural gesture by the Chief of the Village.

I was on my way to Ft. Dauphin because Peace Corps has ‘consolidated’ us because of current political unrest. The article below does a better job than I could on the details of the current situation we face here. Please know that I am safe!
http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20090130/wl_nm/us_madagascar_protests_1

The following is my journal from this last month. A friend over-vacation told me that my ‘blog’ was a bit depressing. I apologize if it comes across that way…Writing seems to have become an excellent outlet for the stress I experience and wonderful tool for me to process what is going on around me.

1/8/09
Out and Back
The ‘out and back’ was my least favorite run. I cringed when the words would come out of coach’s mouth. The sheer thought of running 45-50 minutes on a straight flat trail, knowing that when the watch hit ‘the mark,’ I needed to turn around and do it all over again. The general rue—going is always easier than coming back and that rule defiantly applies to my little trip across the ‘belly’ of the south (i.e. Tulear), referring mainly to the transportation of course. A three day journey that is mostly non-stop with the exception of a few hours sleep during one night (which I later learned was a luxury). My ‘wheels’…a Camion—a military truck that had the roof and seating of a school bus. Benches made of wood and packed tight with people.

The trip going out, as expected wasn’t bad. The ride was equipped with music and a light (also a luxury) but doing anything other than staring, sleeping, or engaging in light conversation was impossible. The road across southern Madagascar (R10) is one of the worst. On a few occasions I was amazed that our vehicle managed to stay ‘up-right’ as it navigated around deep holes, debris, and through water that reached far above the wheel-well at times.

Bruised with feet swollen the size of softballs. I did finally arrive in Tulear.

My List of Favorite Moments
1- Getting out of my little corner of the island. I got to drive through most of my friends’ sites (those that ‘bank’ or get money in Fort Dauphin). Its a beautiful country, filled with beautiful people.
2- My New Years—What do you get when you mix a bunch of Rastafarians and Peace Corps Volunteers together on a beach with a fire, a guitar, drums, and a roasted goat. A Good Time!
3- Christmas Breakfast (the Madagascar equivalent to a Denny’s Grand Slam) followed by a Banana Split (No Lie!) DELICIOUS!
4- Epic seaside battle between Flipper Boy (me) and the evil Dr. Able (Ryan Marsh). His technology will never be able to match a high flipper kick/upper cut/followed by a forward motion dauphin kick. (Unfortunately it was one of those moments; you just had to be there!)
5- Maureen telling the story of how I shouted ‘’I’m a Dauphin!’’ while continually diving in and out of water—apparently I managed to interrupt the romantic sun-set being enjoyed by a French couple and the looks on both faces--annoyance and puzzlement were priceless.
6- Movie Mania: The Dark Night, Happy Feet, The Happening (made me miss PA), and Last King of Scotland…oh yes, I must not forget! ‘DRAINAGE! DRAINAGE, ELI!’ ….There Will Be Blood.
7- Snorkeling in the 4th largest coral reef in the world (I think…?)
8- Coco Punch, Café Punch, Sunrise Punch….I tried them all…twice.
9- An intense game of Sof Boccie on the Beach—Its like regular Boccie, only ‘you can play it anywhere. Inside, outside, in the dorm room, or on a table…..’
10- Getting the DJ at a popular night club to play ’Tsara Taolgnaro’ by DaDah de Fort Dauphen and showing the Veso what the Antanosy are all about….

The ride home…far less enjoyable, I was stuck in Tulear an extra night and sat at the station most of the next day—finally leaving at night. Our ride was packed with bags of rice and beans under or feet making an already uncomfortable wooden bench unbearable. We stopped (or broke down) in every town along the way. The journey ended 5k from Fort Dauphin when our ride ran out of gas. I hitched a ride with an aid worker the last 5k.

Overall a great trip! I’m happy I did it! I needed to remove myself from my very small pocket/world on the island.

1/8/09
Untitled
I finally caught that rat that has been living in my roof. I have a rat trap (think oversized mouse trap) and its effective—I’ve killed six to date. But the one I got last night was not only the largest I’ve seen (think small cat), but my trap wasn’t so effective on it. The trap clipped its front leg pinning the Rat it a position that prevented it from being able to free itself.

I had to kill it—I crushed its head with a rock this morning. A task I didn’t find enjoyable.

1/12/09
Moringa, Sales, and New Religious Movements—they all have something in common.

Today as I was walking from Amboandrika (my village) to Manafiafy (the village by the sea), I was continually stopped along the way by people asking about the trees I was carrying in my tanty (think hand-bag?..but much more socially acceptable here for a male to be carrying) and I started to realize that my work with Moringa is no different than a Salesman selling a product, or even a Prophet (or self-proclaimed prophet) recruiting individuals to join a cult religion (New Religious Movement is the more suitable term). When in college I took a Sociology course on New Religious Movements and I remember learning about a simple sociological theory which attempted to explain why people join or get mixed-up with such movements. The name of the theory I can’t remember, but I do remember it was based on a model of gradual socialization. On the fact that people who join cults join them because they have a friend or relative coerce them in attending an event or ceremony initially. At first they usually don’t believe it, they are hesitant and even skeptical of what they hear. But slowly as time goes by and they are continually listening to the religious rhetoric of friends, family, and charismatic individuals they begin to think otherwise. It’s a slow process—it takes time, but an effective way of creating a base (so the theory goes). You start small—with one person by slowly building trust and that person tells a friend, who also tells a friend. Thus, creating a (hopefully in the case of Moringa) a self propelled ‘’snow-ball effect.’’

Today when I returned home from my ‘Sales’ Trip, I stopped to visit a friend, who without any encouragement, help, or coercion was sitting on the floor of her hut picking Moringa Leaves to add to her vary sosoa (watered-rice). At the immediate site of this, two things crossed my mind (the first a thought and the second a feeling).

1-I never thought to even ‘preached’ to people that they should add Moringa Leaves to watered rice (Innovation! Brilliant!)

2-A slight feeling of hope, although small—I’ll take whatever I can get.

Today I made a Sale! I’ll end with a popular quote from the father who built his career in the sales industry. While growing-up when these words were uttered as he walked through the door it usually meant he had a ‘good day.’

‘’I be the Man!’’

1/16/09
Hidden Agenda

Development….sometimes I feel like it’s just the ‘nice’ bow that’s placed on something much deeper. Peace Corps is without a doubt in America’s best interest, sending mostly young Americans abroad and in two years time getting in return a individual with international experience working in and living among the poor. Many Returned Peace Corps Volunteers choice to pursue careers in foreign policy (State Dept. or USAID), or get graduate degrees and pursue careers contributing greatly to both the private and non-private sectors.

My NGO is no different—they use terms like ‘client’ and ‘package’ when it comes to providing people (clients) with a quality volunteer experience.

So what? Why does this eat at me?

I think it’s because when you peel all this ‘shit’ away at the core are people. Individual lives’, livelihoods’, and futures’.

My neighbors don’t own their land…legally. Sure, they farm it; build on it; plant papaya and coco trees. They also raise their children on it. But in an office 45k south sitting in a file cabinet is a piece of paper (or land deed) and its not in their name. It’s in the name of some guy who 15 years prior decided it would be a good investment to start buying up land. At any point this person can decide to build, farm, or just take claim possession of what is legally theirs. Literally pulling the ‘rug’ from under peoples’ feet (or lives).

How can you ever be expected to climb any ladder without ever having firm ground to put it on first?

1/20/09
Untitiled

My response to friends/NGO who are amazed and equally angry at the face that people do take wood from the well marked and well known ‘protected areas.’

‘’It happens…ever get a parking violation, litter along a highway, or urinate in public?’’ (I know I have received and done all three numerous times)

1/23/09
I just ate a watermelon that I grew from seed. It amazes me that I was able to produce a fruit of that size from a seed that was so small. It brings a sense of accomplishment that rivals no other.

1/26/09
Last Monday at market I watched as people traded baskets of leaves for cash. A kilo of leaves for 200ar. I was told that leaves are used for medicine and they grow naturally in the area, where do they go? First to Ft. Dauphin to be packaged, and then on a boat heading for china where they are…processed into some pill…made into some type of tea…an anti-acid elixir…? I’ll never know…

According to people around here the local name of the plant is ‘tonga’ and used for stomach ailments.

1/29/09
Consolidation

I got a phone call from Peace Corps today with instructions that we are in ‘consolidation’ phase. This means ‘get to Ft. Dauphin ASAP.’ I’ve heard that things are getting heated in the nation’s capital. Riots, looting, and the destruction of the headquarters of MBS (Madagascar Broadcasting System)—which all ties into unresolved political disputes (mainly true or untrue accusations) revolving around the current Madagascar President and the current Mayor of Tana (the capital).

‘Consolidation’ is one step away from evacuation and the thought of leaving St. Luce now at this point in my service in a bit painful. I don’t think and desperately hope it’s a situation I will have to face. But, I have very little idea of what is really going on and how serious the situation really is here. The only issue experienced in St. Luce as the result of all this is that I no longer have 3 radio stations to choose from. Life is going on as if nothing is happening. I have no idea how this is going to end…..